Monday, August 9, 2010

Getting Ready for DragonCon

Can you believe it's August already?!? And what comes after August? Why DragonCon of course! For those of you not familiar with DragonCon, it's a "...multi-genre convention held annually in Atlanta, GA" blah blah blah 30,000 people... blah blah blah $25 million economic impact in 2008 blah blah blah. (Check out the site here, or a brief synopsis on Wikipedia here.)
Surprisingly, I didn't know about DragonCon until I moved here, but if I was the teenager I was back then in today's day and age, I'd be all over DragonCon (and would lose whatever bit of non-geek cred I had!) Anyway, it's a 4 day convention that takes place over Labor Day weekend every year. It's geared toward sci-fi and fantasy, but really if you're into anything you can probably find it at Dragon. And that means comics, too. My husband and I usually work a day or two for our local comic book shop Titan Games and Comics which means we get free passes to wander around AND they let me set up my jewelry and such at their booth (they're good about taking pity on me!) So this year, with the success of the comic book bowls and decoupaged bracelets at Heroes Con in June, I've decided to get my butt in gear and make as many as I can for Dragon.
This was one of my first bowls
I already posted the tutorials for the decoupaged bracelets and the upcycled necklaces, so it's time to talk about the bowls.
I'm trying a bit of a different approach to the Dragon batch. The bowls I made for Heroes Con were made with paper pulp which involved a lot of strain and stress on my blender.
Not a great pic - but here's the Conan bowl
The ones I'm making for Dragon will be a more traditional paper mache version with comic book images decoupaged on top (I really do like to decoupage!)
I'm using old Previews catalogs as my base so the bowls are still made from recycled materials.
I use the guillotine paper cutter to chop up the pages into squares/rectangles - I'm experimenting with shapes and sizes. One site said to make sure the pieces were square and no bigger than 1/2"; another site said 2 1/2" x 1 1/2" rectangles, so I'm working somewhere in the middle.
I got a little overexcited last night chopping up pieces and came down on my finger. LUCKILY my paper cutter does not have a sharpened blade! It just caused a big dent on my thumb. My husband made me take a break for a while.
I'm using a 1:1 ratio of water and white glue. I started with el cheapo glue that I picked up at Hobby Lobby and then hit a back to school sale on Elmer's at Publix. I haven't decided which one I like better yet. I will say the cheap glue mixes better with the water, but the Elmer's seems to stick better.
I picked out several bowls from the cupboard with various shapes and sizes. I covered the outsides of the bowls with plastic wrap pulled tight and smoothed down as much as possible and taped on the inside.
Oh yeah, do yourself a favor and cover your work area with plastic - this gets messy!
Also, have some stands ready before you start mache-ing! It's not easy to go rummaging in the pantry with watery glue dripping down your arms! I used cans, but I found they rust when you leave them sitting to dry. As long as it elevates your bowl as you're working and then it's drying, you've got a winner!
I mixed my glue in an empty cream cheese container. It was deep enough and wide enough for what I needed. Submerge a handful of your paper in the glue mix and let it sit so the glue can absorb into the paper.
You don't want it falling apart, so a minute or two is plenty. Take one piece, squeeze it through your fingers lightly (you don't want it sopping wet) and put it on the bowl.
I overlapped the pieces and alternated which way I placed them (there's not a whole lot of science to this - well there probably is, I just didn't apply it!)
You will need to do a minimum of six layers (more like 10 for a sturdy bowl!) and I did 2 layers at a time, letting the bowls dry between my crafting sessions. If it's stinking hot (like it is here in Atlanta right now) you might want to put them outside. The big thing is to make sure it is COMPLETELY dry before you pull it off the bowl and do any decorating. If you seal it before it's dry you get nasty moldy ickyness.
Once your bowls are dry, it's up to you what you want to do next. Depending on the type of material you used to make the paper mache, you may like the way it looks just the way it is. You can paint them or do what I plan to do and use images from the comic books to decoupage the outside and inside of the bowls. I plan to seal it with some acrylic spray and will post the results after they're done!
I do have a dream bowl I want to make - I would use a Martha Stewart Living magazine for the mache and then find images of the Craft Diva herself to decoupage. I might even add some glitter glue crowns!

How would you decorate your bowl?

Next craft - (keeping in the comic book theme) recycled paper gift bows!

Sunday, August 1, 2010

Upcycled Comic Book Necklaces



My husband and I are comic book geeks.

A glimpse at our decor
I was always a cartoon and superhero junkie, and in college I got into Neila Gaiman's Sandman series; but I really got pulled into the world of comics when I met Eric and now that's pretty much our lives. A simple example that kind of sheds light on it all... we picked the paint color for our kitchen (you can see our kitchen in one of my previous entries) to match the background of a Tony Harris Batman painting that is framed and hanging in the kitchen. Told you we were geeks!
Despite the fact that I like comic books I do have a slightly sadistic and very sarcastic side of me that likes to poke fun at it all (especially at Eric's expense!) I can not tell you how much pleasure it gives me to chop up comic books (although I usually only use the bad ones) to make these funky necklaces and see the horror on the fan boys' faces when I put them on the table to sell at comic shows. There are a lot of bad books out there and this is a great way to keep them out of landfill.
ALSO!!! My tutorial for these necklaces will be featured on a great new site I found recently that features indie crafters. The site has profiles of crafters, great tutorials, and even GIVEAWAYS!!! Check out http://monsterbites365.com/  this Wednesday, August 3 for a chance to win one of my comic book necklaces. Then, keep going back every day for a chance to win other great stuff and meet cool crafters.

Upcycled Comic Book Necklace

 These necklaces were actually inspired by a project I saw for a bowl made of one very large paper coil. I love geometric designs, but someone suggested I make one of these in the shape of an "X" since I was using an X-Men book at the time. I started with more abstract shapes but finally did the “X”!

Materials:
Comic book
Glue stick
Liquid glue (like Elmer’s)
Large eyed needle
Metal chain
Jump rings
Bamboo skewer (or other similarly shaped and sized stick-like object)
Lobster, spring ring, or other necklace clasp
Jewelry pliers
Rubber bands
Mod Podge (or other sealant for paper)
Small paint brush

Directions:

1. Find a comic book with little or no value. I usually stock up on "Free Comic Book Day"; the first Saturday in May every year comic book stores and other retailers give out books that are stamped "Free Comic Book Day" and are therefore not worth much to collectors. You can also use magazines, catalogs, or anything that has color. Each page of the comic book is about 6 5/8" by 10 1/8". I cut each page into 3 strips lengthwise (a hair shy of 2 ¼” wide). I used a guillotine cutter to make it easier, but scissors work nicely too!
Here's a pile of the strips cut to the right size.
2. Take each strip, fold it in half lengthwise, and then fold the outsides in to the center seam.
3. Lightly glue each strip (I use a glue stick) down the quarter flaps and the middle and press it together so that it's flat. I usually weight the strips under a heavy book or something of a similar weight for about 10 minutes to keep them flat.
 5. Once your strips have dried, tape several together end-to-end. I wrap the tape around the paper completely. I wish I could find a better method because the tape is a little unsightly in the coil, but glues don't seem to get the job done the way I want. Note: I have used 2, 3, and 5 strips to make coils of different sizes.
6. Now the frustrating, I mean fun part. Start coiling your strips. I start mine around a bamboo skewer to get a nice round hole in the center. When you've coiled it around about 5 times you can pull it off the skewer and keep coiling. Pull it tight as you go and get ready for some to pop out of your hands and come undone! I don't glue along the way because it makes it really messy.

7. When you're done, put a line of liquid (i.e. Elmer's) glue along the inside of the last inch or so of the coil. Smooth it out and wrap a rubber band around it fairly tightly to let it set. I find 5 minutes is usually good enough and I can pull the rubber band off to use on my next coil.
Here's a coil drying with the rubber band wrapped around it.
8. With a fairly stiff brush, coat each coil with Mod Podge. I do one side, forcing the Mod Podge in between the layers, let it dry and then turn over and do the other side. You can use your bamboo skewer to clean out the center hole.
9. After your coils have dried, arrange them in a pattern. I try to turn the seams in and usually tack them together with some glue.
10. Find an interesting thread and stitch away between the coils. I used cotton embroidery thread on the fuchsia one. I used a larger gauge beading needle and made three passes at each coil to coil seam. I wasn't able to do it in one continuous line of stitching, so there are some knots on the back. GLUE YOUR KNOTS!!!
11. I also made passes over the outer edge of the top coils so I could attach my jump rings. Use your pliers to open the rings and thread them underneath your stitches. Close the jump rings.
12. Attach your chain to the jump rings, add a clasp, and it is ready to wear!
This is another one I made using olive green thread.

Monday, July 19, 2010

Upcycling Wine Bottles - The Process Part 2 - Drilling and Assembling


So I have to apologize for being THREE WEEKS (PLUS!) behind on this post. I have a really good excuse... there was a family July 4th celebration with feuding neighbors (and cops!), then a day job trip to California, and, oh yeah - my Dremel and camera batteries were dead! And then there was a surprise visit from our friend The James. See, perfectly legitimate reasons for not getting my stuff done. HA!
Hopefully you didn't give up on me! Let's finish our project...

We left off with cut and ground glass bottles. The next steps are drilling holes in the punt and bottom of the bottle, washing the grit off, getting any leftover label goo off, and finally assembling the wind chimes.

Do you know about Harbor Freight Tools? It's a fantastic store full of cheap tools and random garage/outdoor things (hamburger patty presses were across the aisle from a really dull machete!) The stuff there is super-cheap, but don't count on it lasting you forever. When working with glass, you really need diamond tip saw blades and drill/rotary tool bits. One single Dremel brand diamond tip bit is $11.97 at Home Depot; I got this set of 20 different bits from Harbor Freight for $7.99.
The tips worked great for a while, then they started slipping in my Dremel; it got so bad that any pressure would make the bit slip. I thought it had to be the cheap bits, so I bought another pack of different ones for $4.99 and brought them home to try out.
I use a Dremel drill press to keep the bit from chattering while it bites into the glass.
You always want to drill glass with water, so I use a small plastic container deep enough to allow the punts and bottoms to be submerged while drilling.
I used the 1/8" bit for the bottoms and the 1/16" bit for the punts since they're a lot smaller.

The punts are easy to do. Since they're domed, they almost act like a compass; when you put them in the water they usually trap an air bubble under the dome (make sure the dome is facing down).
This really makes it easy to find the center. Start with light pressure and lift your bit periodically out of the hole to let the water flow over it. You'll find your sweet spot for pressure after a few practice runs. You don't want it to be too light, but let the diamond bit do all the work. I usually set my Dremel speed on 4 - 5.
Your water will start to get cloudy from all the grit. That's okay until you can't see what you're drilling anymore. Be careful where you dump it, though because you may have some small shards of glass.
(See the pieces of green glass?)
I thought this punt was awesome! See the 3 little wine bottles design? I almost hated to drill it... almost!
Now let's talk about the bottoms. These are pretty thick hunks of glass and you have to be strategic about where you drill. There's usually a "moat" created when you cut off the punt; this gives you a thinner area to drill. Turn the bottom down so you're drilling into the "moat" (you don't want to drill flat and make a whole in your plastic container!) This is where it's really important to lift the bit every so often since you're dealing with a bigger whole and thicker glass than the punt. Again, use pressure but don't force it, let the bit do its job.
Once you have your punts and bottoms drilled it's time to clean up! Remember you're basically dealing with melted sand, so the grit that comes from the holes is very fine and very messy - you'll need some elbow grease! I fill the sink with warm soapy water and use a baby bottle cleaner for the insides of the bottles and a cloth for the bottoms and the punts.
This is a great time to check for cracks. Cutting and drilling has put stress on the bottles and if they crack that crack will run.
(it's hard to see the crack on this one, but it's there)
 If you're careful you can salvage a cracked bottle for a suncatcher but don't expect it to make a pretty sound (more of a dull "thunk" than a delicate "tinkle"). Sometimes if a punt is cracked the glass will just crumble away and you'll lose it. In this batch of bottles I lost one bottle and one punt.

Dry your bottles (I just put mine on the counter to air dry since I was out of time to work on them for the evening). Don't be surprised after they're dried if you have to wash them again, I tell you that grit is tough!

Next step is getting the rest of the label goo off. You'll think your bottles are clean, but trust me they're not. Touch them! Are they sticky? If so, that needs to come off! I said before I wished I could find a better cleaner, but right now the Goo Gone is about the best thing I have. I tried nail polish remover but it didn't work as well. Even with the Goo Gone it takes some scrubbing and a couple of passes - guess the wine companies don't want their labels coming off!
Now that we're squeaky clean we can assemble the chimes. I've done three batches of chimes so far and the assembly method for each one has been different.

For the first batch I drilled two holes through the neck of the bottle and then created a twine contraption that had one loop going through the neck holes (HA! that reminds me of vampires!); then I strung the punt on another longer piece of twine and knotted the twine above and below the punt; I fed the twine through the bottom of the bottle and knotted it several times; finally I had to tie the hanging piece to the loop through the neck. It wasn't very elegant, but it worked.

For my second batch, I had been to the Cherry Blossom Festival in Macon and saw a guy selling wine bottle lanterns (I'll be making some next). He was using a smaller gauge chain and two sizes of split rings (the rings on key chains). The smaller ring was used to hang the bottle and the larger one worked as a stopper going from the body of the bottle up into the neck. BRILLIANT! I got my split rings at Wal-Mart in the crafts section; they also have them at Michael's with the summer crafts.
The only problem was the chain added extra "clanging" against the glass that detracted from the pretty "tinkle" of the punt. So on to round three.

With this batch I went back to twine but I'm still using the split rings.

I had a nice ball of twine, but the cats got to it, so I just have to cut off what I can.
I cut a piece about 3 feet long and double it up. Tie the top of the twine to the larger split ring; I'm not a knot expert so do it however works best for you as long as it doesn't slip!
About 3 - 4 inches down tie a good sized knot. String the punt (dome down) onto the doubled twine and tie another knot below it - you want to keep the punt from sliding.

Come down another 6 - 8 inches (it's all preference) and string the twine through the hole you drilled in the bottom of the bottle. Now you could certainly avoid drilling that hole and just thread your twine through the hole in the middle left by the punt, but I like the way it hangs with the extra hole. Whatever you do make sure your knots are tight and don't slip.
Cut another piece of twine about 12" - 18" long. Tie it to the opposite side of the large split ring and thread the entire thing up through the bottle of the neck. The split ring will stop it from feeding through the neck.
Leave about 2 - 4 inches of twine out of the bottle (again it's your preference) and tie on the smaller split ring.
Voila - you now have a beautiful upcycled wind chime! It's amazing that each one sounds so different.

These have been a hit at the craft shows that I've done. Up until now I haven't listed them on Etsy, but I think I will. If you're interested in buying one, here's the link to my shop: http://www.amica813.etsy.com/. I'll try to have them listed this week.

My next project still involves upcycling glass bottles, but I'll be making lamps (electric) and lanterns (candle)!

If you try your hand at the chimes, let me know how it goes!